Modeling waves, currents and sandbars on natural beaches: The effect of surface rollers

摘要

A morphodynamic model has been extended to gain more fundamental knowledge about the formation of\udnearshore sand bars. The model describes feedbacks between waves, rollers, depth-averaged currents and bed\udevolution, so that self-organized processes can develop. Offshore wave, wind and tide conditions and the\udbathymetry measured at Egmond site (the Netherlands) are firstly applied to compute the longshore current\udand wave height profiles.